My new toy

April 13 I drove to Houston to buy my new toy
the Worksman PAV3-3CB 110 lb 3 speed
industrial tricycle 500 lb GVW. It has thick steel rims
and 11 gage (0.120") spokes. In the past under my 280 lbs
numerous spokes and several Sun Mammoth aluminum
rims broke while riding on paved shoudler of the highway
at heady speeds approaching 8 mph average. These wheels
won't break.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5tgLLmZj8w

It took real effort to make it over these little sand hills
in low gear. It still takes effort but now I use second gear.
I ride every day. Soon I will ride the same route in third
gear. Like the little train I know I can I know I can.

Fishkit in 14" Gerber ax handle

Fishkit in the hollow handle of my 14" Gerber ax consists of
-size 8 and size 12 treble hooks threaded onto a safety pin.
-50 lb test braided Spyderwire fish line (as thin as BrandX 10 lb test line) wrapped on a clear plastic sewing bobbin
- magnesium firestarter cut in half lengthwise, and painted to retard corrosion. I attached a cord to MFS, ran it through the center hole of the bobbin, and attached it to hacksaw blade
scraper.
-two single-edge razor blades
To keep everything inside the hollow handle, I stuffed a small mesh bag into the handle, and threaded a leather thong through the two holes near the open end of the handle.
You get two MFS for the price of one. Cut a Magnesium FireStarter in two lengthwise, one piece has a striker inset, and the other does not. Place the piece of MFS (that has no striker inset) in a vise. file a trench lengthwise. Hold Ronson lighter flints in pliers and with wire brush remove red coating from each flint. Apply mixed JB Weld to trench in MFS. press lighter flints into the JB Weld. Next morning after the JBWeld is dried, apply two coats paint to MFS, else it will rapidly corrode in damp climate. After paint has dried, connect MFS with stout nylon cord thru bobbin of fishline to 3" section of hacksaw blade.

meat

I bought ground beef round, dried it in Harvest Maid food dehydrator until it snapped like a dry stick, battered it to small chunks and ground it to powder in Corona corn mill.

one cup dried jerky powder weighs 4 oz = 10 oz fresh meat

1 cup meat powder, 2oz sunflower oil,ground cayenne and cold water in a jar (shake well) makes a quick sustaining meal. Meat powder, oil, ground cayenne, cheese and hot water makes a delicous instant soup.

(Edited to add this info) 100 grams (3.5 oz) ground cayenne contains 16 grams protein, 56 grams carbs, 76 grams Vitamin C and lots of other goodies.
http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/cgi-bin/nut_search.pl?cayenne

Add a cup or two of ground jerky powder to pancake and cornbread batter. You'll like it
................................................................................................
http://www.mongoliatoday.com/issue/5/borts.html
Dried Meat, Food to Last

Mongolian food is rather simple and nourishing. Encounters with different cultures in the course of centuries long wandering across Europe and Asia did not affect the basic diet of nomads, comprising mainly of various combinations of meat and flour.

Life in a saddle, frequent moves in search of better pastures tending their herds prevented Mongols from developing a sophisticated cuisine.

But while Mongols failed to come up with a wide variety of dishes, they mastered what was available to perfection, especially when it comes to meat. There are dozens ways of cooking it: boiling, frying, drying, steaming or smoking.

Here we give a description of how borts (bour- tsi), or dried meat is made-- an ancient way of preserving meat through long harsh winters or marches across continents

As soon as the first cold winter days settle in early December, most Mongolian families set out to store meat reserve.

As a rule, one cow and up to seven to eight sheep are sufficient for a family of five to last through long and harsh winter, until diary products become more available during spring livestock breeding season.

Beef is the meat of choice, but each region has its own specifics. Herders in the Gobi Desert store mostly camel meat, while mountain tribes prefer to slaughter a yak or goats.

First, fresh meat is cut into long, 2- 3 cm thick and 5-7 cm wide strips, then hanged on a rope inside a gher, just under the ceiling where air circulates freely.

Within a month, the meat dries up. Once all the moisture evaporates, meat strips turn into hard, wood-like sticks of a slightly brownish color. The stripped and dried meat of one cow shrinks enough to be easily fit into the animal's stomach.

When the borts is ready, it is taken down and either broken into small pieces, 5-7cm long or minced. The borts is put into a bag made of canvas that allows airflow in and out. Borts can be kept in such bags for months and even years without losing the qualities of meat.

Dried meat is an ideal food for travelers. On long marches, Mongols simply take out a stick of dried meat, powder it and add to boiling water to make a cup of fresh and nourishing bouillon. Even nowadays, many Mongols take a small bag of borts when traveling to faraway places for study or to live.

"I survived the wet and cold winter only by making a cup of borts soup once in a while," says a Mongolian journalist, after spending six months on the Atlantic shore of England.

page 90 Wilderness Cookery by Bradford Angier
Meat is the one complete food. Plump fresh meat is the single food known to mankind that contains every nutritional ingredient necessary for good health. It is entirely possible for man to live on meat alone. No particular parts need be eaten. Fat juicy sirloins, if you prefer, will supply you with all the food necessary for top robustness even if you eat nothing else for a week, a month or a decade.
Every animal in the far and near reaches of this continent, every fish that swims in our lakes and rivers and streams is good to eat. Nearly every part of North American animals is edible, even the somewhat bland antlers that are not bad roasted when in velvet, to the bitterish gall that has an occasional use as seasoning. The single exception is the liver of the polar bear, and of the ringed and bearded seal, which at certain times become so rich in Vitamin A that it is well avoided. Juicy fricasseess, succulent stews and sizzling roasts are fine fare.
If anything, most of us would be happy eating more of this ideal grub which contains all the vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients necessary for full vigor. One way to acomplish this? By not passing up the birds and small game which are freely available to many of us thoughout the entire year and which if not eaten will only be wasted.

from Wilderness Cookery by Bradford Angier
Drying is the simplest way to preserve meat. Cut with the grain. Cut lean deer, moose,elk, caribou, beef and similar red meat in long strips 1/2 inch thick. Hang strips not touching on bushes, etc. Lay on sunwarmed rocks. Turn every hour os so. Smoke from a small fire of non-resinous wood keeps flies away. Season to taste with salt, pepper, thyme. oregano etc. Dry meat until hard, blackish., leathery. Jerky keeps indefinitely if kept dry and away from insects. Trim visible fat for long storage. Jerky alone lacks sufficient necessary fat for the long-term. Supplement it with fats.

from Arctic Manual by Vilhjalmuir Steffansson
On a diet of straight meat , cut fat and lean into inch cubes. Eat one fat, one lean. When fat no longer tastes good, eat just lean until you are full. If fat makes you nauseous you are eating too much of it. The Eskimos he saw were a strong, healthy race and they subsisted on a diet which consisted largely of meat and animal and marine fat. The fat included large quantities of whale blubber. Yes the Eskimo did not suffer from obesity. If meat needs carbohydrate and other vegetable additions to make it wholesome then the poor Eskimo were not eating healthfully .. they should have been in a wretched sate. On the contrary, they seems to me the healthiest people I had lived with."

Farming for Self-Sufficiency John & Sally Seymour page 117
Biltong is salted and dried strips of buck meat or beef and it is almost worshipped by South Afrikans. Living in the back-veld of South West Afrika, as I used to do, biltong formed an important part of my diet. If I shot a gemsbok or a kudu I would turn a very large part of it into biltong. I have made it in Wales since then, in fact I made some last year, out of beef,
and it has been perfectly successful. The only drawback is you need prime cuts really; biltong made from odd bits of scrag end is not really much good.
But this is the way you do it. Cut lean meat up in strips, say an inch square but the longer the better, along the grain or fibre, of the meat. This is most important: do not cut it across the grain. Lay it in dry salt for six hours. Wash the salt off it and hang it - if in southern Afrika in the dry season - in the shade but in the breeze - if in the British Isles in the chimney. I leave mine in the chimney, in light smoke, for say three days, take it down, hang it up in the kitchen, and it is perfect biltong. It is as hard as hickory. To eat it you just pare or shred little shavings off the end of it across the grain with your Joseph Roger 'Lambsfoot' knife (old back-velders will know what I mean), put it on bread and butter, and it is delicious.

To cast bullets in the field

To cast bullets in the field I would dig a Dakota fire hole;
make a wire bail on a 15 oz bean can; put bail on a metal
rod across the fire hole to hang the can down in the fire
hole to melt the wheel weights. I would flux with wax,
stir and pour the metal with a lead dipper; then drop the
bullet from mould into water to quench and harden.
http://www.survivaltopics.com/survival/the-dakota-fire-hole/
http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,2480.html

http://www.castbullet.com/reload/acast.htm
excerpt Paco Kelly talks about water-quenching bullets
and I have begun to use this method of quickly cooling
bullets cast from wheelweights. If you drop the bullet
into the water straight from the mold, the water cools
the bullet quickly imparting additional hardness to the
new bullet. Hard bullets are good if you are casting for
smokeless powder.

So, if I am casting for my pistols and want hard bullets,
I fill the mold and let the sprue harden. As soon as the
sprue hardens I whack the sprue plate and drop the
sprue on the towel. I then hold the mold over the
water-filled can and drop the bullets directly into the
can. When the bullets are hot, you can hear them
sizzle as they hit the water. end excerpt

Dakota fire hole

http://www.survivaltopics.com/survival/the-dakota-fire-hole/

B0V bike in the trunk

A cheap and dirty BOV bike in the trunk
--buy an 0ld steel frame bike cheap
--install heavy duty wheelset and airfree tires
--cut t0p tube and d0wntube
--use external sleeve, 0r steel b0lt inside tubes, t0
c0nnect the cut tubes. drill h0les. tw0 b0lts at each end
maybe use allenhead screws?
--disassemble/assemble quickly

This bike has 400 lb GVW.
http://tinyurl.com/55zc5p.
You can equip any frame with
400 lb GVW one speed wheelset.
WHEEL 26x2.125 rear coaster brake, 120g, steel (HD-120)
http://tinyurl.com/55zc5p00-222 Price: $42.00
WHEEL 26x2.125 front, 120-g spokes, steel (HD-120)
Price: $27.00
http://tinyurl.com/cmokpc

www.airfreetires.com
Tell Hugh Waters that you want
the +30% version 0celot and
Sierra Unidirectional. They have
little rolling resistance under
my 280 lbs.
http://www.airfreetires.com/shopping/p-60-26-x-19-ocelot-low-profile-559-premium-hd.aspx
http://www.airfreetires.com/shopping/p-64-26-x-19-sierra-unidirectional-559-premium-hd.aspx

Silent but deadly and other Ed Harris essays

silent but deadly and other Ed Harris essays

http://guns.connect.fi/gow/ed.html

Cast Bullet Basics For Military Surplus Rifles
By C.E. Harris Rev. 9-6-93

FOR THE FULL - NON-CONDENSED VERSION, PICK UP THE NEWEST EDITION OF HANDLOADER'S DIGEST.

Cast bullet loads usually give a more useful zero at practical field ranges with military battle sights than do full power loads. Nothing is more frustrating than a military rifle that shoots a foot high at a hundred yards with surplus ammo when the sight is as low as it will go!

Do NOT use inert fillers (Dacron or kapok) to take up the excess empty space in the case. This was once common practice, but it raises chamber pressure and under certain conditions contributes to chamber ringing. If a particular load will not work well without a filler, the powder is not suitable for those conditions of loading.

Four load classifications from Mattern (1932) cover all uses for the cast bullet military rifle. I worked up equivalent charges to obtain the desired velocity ranges with modern powders, which provide a sound basis for loading cast bullets in any post-1898 military rifle from 7 mm to 8 mm:

1. 125-gr., plainbased "small game/gallery"
900-1000 f.p.s., 5 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

2. 150-gr. plainbased "100-yd. target/small game",
1050-1250 f.p.s., 7 grs. of Bullseye or equivalent.

3. 150-180-gr. gaschecked "200-yard target"
1500-1600 f.p.s., 16 grs. of #2400 or equivalent.

4. 180-200-gr. gaschecked "deer/600-yard target"
1750-1850 f.p.s., 26 grs. of RL-7 or equivalent.

None of these loads are maximum when used in full-sized rifle cases such as the .30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine, 7.7 Jap, 7.62x54R or .30-'06. They can be used as basic load data in most modern military rifles of 7 mm or larger, with a standard- weight cast bullet for the caliber, such as 140-170 grains in the 7x57, 150-180 grains in the .30 calibers, and 150-190 grains in the 8 mm. For bores smaller than 7 mm, consult published data.

The "Small Game or Gallery" Load

The 110-115-gr. bullets intended for the .30 carbine and .32-20 Winchester, such as the Lyman #311008, #311359 or #311316 are not as accurate as heavier ones like the #311291. There isn't a readily-available .30 cal. cast small game bullet of the proper 125-130-gr. weight. LBT makes a 130-gr. flat-nosed, GC bullet for the .32 H&R Magnum which is ideal for this purpose. I recommend it highly, particularly if you own a .32 revolver!


The "100-Yard Target and Small Game" Load

I use Mattern's plainbased "100-yard target load" to use up my minor visual defect culls for offhand and rapid-fire 100-yard practice. I substitute my usual gaschecked bullets, but without the gascheck. I started doing this in 1963 with the Lyman #311291. Today I use the Lee .312-155-2R, or the similar tumble-lubed design TL.312-160-2R. Most of my rifle shooting is done with these two basic designs.

Bullets I intend for plainbased loads are blunted using a flatnosed top punch in my lubricator, providing a 1/8" flat which makes them more effective on small game and clearly distinguishes them from my heavier gaschecked loads. This makes more sense to me than casting different bullets. Bullet preparation is easy. I visually inspect each run of bullets and throw those with gross defects into the scrap box for remelting. Bullets with minor visual defects are tumble-lubed in Lee Liquid Alox without sizing, and are used for plain-based plinkers. Bullets which are visually perfect are sorted into groups of +/- 0.5 grain used for 200 yard matches. Gaschecks pressed onto their bases by hand prior running into the lubricator-sizer.

For "gaschecked bullets loaded without the gascheck," for cases like the .303 British, 7.62 NATO, 7.62x54R Russian and .30-'06 I use 6-7 grains of almost any fast burning pistol powder, including, but not limited to Bullseye, W-W231, SR-7625, Green Dot, Red Dot, or 700-X. I have also had fine results with 8 to 9 grains of medium burning rate pistol or shotgun powders, such as Unique, PB, Herco, or SR-4756 in any case of .303 British size or larger.

In the 7.62x39 case use no more than 4 grains of the fast-burning powders mentioned, or 5 grains of the shotgun powders. These make accurate 50-yd. small game loads which let you operate the action manually and save your precious cases. These plinkers are more accurate than you can hold.

Repeated reloading of rimless cases with very mild loads results in the primer blast shoving the shoulder back, unless flash holes are enlarged with a No.39 drill to 0.099" diameter. Cases which are so modified must NEVER be used with full-power loads! ALWAYS identify cases which are so modified by filing a deep groove across the rim with a file and label them clearly to prevent their inadvertent use. For this reason I prefer to do my plainbased practice shooting in rimmed cases like the .30-30, .30-40 rag, .303 British and 7.62x54R which maintain positive headspace on the rim and are not subject to this limitation.

The Harris "Subsonic Target" Compromise

Mattern liked a velocity of around 1250 f.p.s. for his "100-yard target" load, because this was common with the lead-bullet .32-40 target rifles of his era. I have found grouping is best with non-gascheck bullets in military rifles at lower velocities approaching match-grade .22 Long Rifle ammunition. I use my "Subsonic Target" load at around 1050-1100 f.p.s. to replace both Mattern's "small game" and "100-yard target" loads, though I have lumped it with the latter since it really serves the same purpose. Its report is only a modest pop, rather than a crack.

If elongated bullet holes and enlarged groups indicate marginal bullet stability, increase the charge a half grain and try again. If necessary increasing the charge no more than a full grain from the minimum recommended, if needed to get consistent accuracy. If this doesn't work, try a bullet which is more blunt and short for its weight, because it will be more easily stabilized. If this doesn't do the trick, you must change to a gaschecked bullet and a heavier load.

The Workhorse Load - Mattern's "200-Yard Target"

My favorite load is the most accurate, Mattern's so-called "200-yard target load". I expect 10-shot groups at 200 yards, firing prone rapid with sling to average 4-5". I shoot high-Sharpshooter/low-Expert scores across the course with an issue 03A3 or M1917, shooting in a cloth coat, using my cast bullet loads. The power of this load approximates the .32-40, inadequate for deer by today's standards.

Mattern's "200-yard target load" is easy to assemble. Because it is a mild load, soft scrap alloys usually give better accuracy than harder ones such as linotype. Local military collector-shooters have standardized on 16 grains of #2400 as the "universal" prescription. It gives around 1500 f.p.s. with a 150-180-gr. cast bullet in almost any military caliber. We use 16 grains of #2400 as our reference standard, just as highpower competitors use 168 Sierra MatchKings and 4895.

The only common military rifle cartridge in which 16 grains of #2400 provides a maximum load which must not be exceeded is in the tiny 7.62x39 case. Most SKS rifles will function reliably with charges of #2400 as light as 14 grains with the Lee .312-155-2R at around 1500 f.p.s. I designed this bullet especially for the 7.62x39, but it works very well as a light bullet in any .30 or .303 cal. rifle.Cast Bullet Basics For Military Surplus Rifles (cont.)

Sixteen Grains of #2400 Is The Universal Load

The same 16 grain charge of #2400 is universal for all calibers as a starting load. It is mild and accurate in any larger military case from a .30-40 Krag or .303 British up through a .30-'06 or 7.9x57, with standard-weight bullets of suitable diameter for the caliber. This is my recommendation for anybody trying cast bullet loads for the first time in a military rifle without prior load development. I say this because #2400 is not position sensitive, requires no fiber fillers to ensure uniform ignition, and actually groups better when you just stripper-clip load the rifle and bang them off, rather than tipping the muzzle up to position the charge.

Similar ballistics can be obtained with other powders in any case from 7.62x39 to .30-'06 size. If you don't have Hercules #2400 you can freely substitute 17 grains of IMR or H4227, 18 grs. Of 4198, 21 grs. of Reloder 7, 24 grs. of IMR3031, or 25.5 grs. Of 4895 for comparable results. However, these other powders may give some vertical stringing in cases larger than the 7.62x39 unless the charge is positioned against the primer by tipping the muzzle up before firing. Hercules #2400 does not require this precaution. Don't ask me why. Hercules #2400 usually gives tight clusters only within a narrow range of charge weights within a grain or so, and the "universal" 16 grain load is almost always best. Believe me, we have spent a lot of time trying to improve on this, and you can take our word for it.

The beauty of the "200-yard target load" at about 1500 f.p.s. is that it can be assembled with bullets cast from the cheapest inexpensive scrap alloy, and fired all day without having to clean the bore. It ALWAYS works. Leading is never a problem. Once a uniform bore condition is established, the rifle behaves like a .22 match rifle, perhaps needing a warming shot or two if it has cooled, but otherwise being remarkably consistent. The only thing I do after a day's shoot is to swab the bore with a couple of wet patches of GI bore cleaner or Hoppe's, and let it soak until the next match. I then follow with three dry patches prior to firing. It only takes about three foulers to get the 03A3 to settle into tight little clusters again.

"Deer and Long Range Target" Load

Mattern's "deer and 600 yard target load" can be assembled in cases of .30-40 Krag capacity or larger up to the .30-'06 using 18-21 grs. of #2400 or 4227, 22-25 grs. of 4198, 25-28 grs. Of RL-7 or 27-30 grs. of 4895, which give from 1700-1800 f.p.s., depending on the case size. These charges must not be used in cases smaller than the .303 British without cross-checking against published data! The minimum charge should always be used initially, and the charge adjusted within the specified range only as necessary to get best grouping. Popular folklore suggests a rifle barrel must be near perfect for good results with cast bullets, but this is mostly bunk, though you may have to be persistent.

I have a rusty-bored Finnish M28/30 which I have shot extensively, in making direct comparisons with the same batches of loads on the same day with a mint M28 and there was no difference. The secret in getting a worn bore to shoot acceptably is remove all prior fouling and corrosion. Then you must continue to clean the bore "thoroughly and often" until it maintains a consistent bore condition over the long term. You must also keep cast bullet loads under 1800 f.p.s. for hunting, and under 1600 for target work.

A cleaned and restored bore will usually give good accuracy with cast bullet loads if the bullet fits the chamber THROAT properly, is well lubricated and the velocities are kept below 1800 f.p.s. The distinction between throat diameter and groove diameter in determining proper bullet size is important. If you are unable to determine throat diameter from a chamber cast, a rule of thumb is to size bullets .002" over groove diameter, such as .310" for a .30-'06, .312" for a 7.62x54R and .314" for a .303 British.

"Oversized .30s" like the .303 British, 7.7 Jap, 7.65 Argentine, 7.62x39 Russian and frequently give poor accuracy with .30 cal. cast bullets designed for U.S. barrels having .300 bore and .308 groove dimensions, because the part of the bullet ahead of the driving bands receives no guidance from the lands in barrels of larger bore diameter. The quick rule of thumb to checking proper fit of the forepart is to insert the bullet nose first into the muzzle. If it enters to clear up to the front driving band without being noticeably engraved, accuracy will seldom be satisfactory.

The forepart is not too large if loaded rounds can be chambered with only slight resistance, the bullet does not telescope back into the case, or to stick in the throat when extracted without firing. A properly fitting cast bullet should engrave the forepart positively with the lands, and be no more than .001" under chamber throat diameter on the driving bands. Cast bullets with a tapered forepart at least .002" over bore diameter give the best results.

Many pre-WWII Russian rifles of US make, and later Finnish reworks, particularly those with Swiss barrels by the firm SIG, have very snug chamber necks and cannot be used with bullets over .311" diameter unless case necks are reamed or outside turned to .011" wall thickness to provide safe clearance. Bullets with a large forepart like the Lee .312-155-2R or Lyman #314299 work best in the 7.62x54R, because the forcing cones are large and gradual. Standard .30 cal. gaschecks are correct. Finnish 7.62x54R, Russian 7.62x39 and 7.65 Argentine barrels are smaller than Russian 7.62x54R, Chinese 7.62x39, Jap 7.7 or .303 British barrels, and usually have standard .300" bore diameter, (Finnish barrels occasionally are as small as .298") and groove diameters of .310-.3115".

In getting the best grouping with iron sighted military rifles, eyesight is the limiting factor. Anybody over age 40 who shoots iron sights should to equip himself with a "Farr-Sight" from Gil Hebbard or Brownell's. This adjustable aperture for your eyeglass frame was intended for indoor pistol shooters, but it helps my iron sight rifle shooting, and adds about 5 points to my score!

can you hide your thermal image?

when you are hunted how will you hide your thermal image?
I don't know. maybe those heavy aluminized space blankets.

thermal rifle scope
http://tinyurl.com/dnc8vu

thermal scope hog hunting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLp6DQjDjxw

Holbrook device for Garand

The Holbrook Garand rifle thumb saver is $45.00
postpaid. Please send postal money order
John Holbrook
2015 24th St #57
Bellingham WA 98225
john.holbrook@comcast.net

see Boston's Gun Bible page 11/30
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
The Device is a replacement for the GI op rod catch and it stops automatic bolt release when loading a clip. It also prevents auto clip ejection when the last round is fired.

http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/expl-vue.htm
Pls see exploded view Garand
The Holbrook device replaces item 31 oprod catch.
He cut the hook off, and installed a spring on one side.

With it installed, the Garand operates much like the M-14/M1A. When a full clip is inserted into the receiver it will latch, however you must pull and release the bolt handle to charge the top round. It will operate in the normal manner until the last round is fired and the
bolt will lock open but the clip will not eject. To eject the clip you must push the eject button on the receiver...

With an empty clip latched in the receiver, single rounds can be loaded into the clip, 1 through 8. when you have as many as you wish, just pull and release and away you go.......

The rifle is not modified and can be converted back to GI by replacing the Device with the original catch.

I installed it in my Garand. It works exactly as described. I am delighted.

So long as the army is supplying you with unlimited ammo it does not matter if the enbloc clips fly away never to be found. The unreconstructed diehard resister/survivor skulking in the mesquite thickets will appreciate the Holbrook device. It allows him to remove the empty clip and keep it for reloading. That's good because he may not be able to find more .

I was a rifleman in First Platoon Co B 27th Wolfhounds Sep 50 to Sep 51 in Korean War One. The idea that the enemy waits to hear the PING of the ejected enbloc clip to charge your position is utter horseshit.

The Load, cost of components, trajectory

http://www.icehouse.net/fgrig/gun/REDDOT.TXT

excerpts
"The velocities obtained with 13 grs. of Red Dot appear mild, but "The Load" is no pipsqueak! In a case like the .308 or .30-'06, you get (from a 24" sporter barrel) about 1450 f.p.s. with a 200 gr. cast bullet, 1500 with a 170-gr., or 1600 with a 150-gr. cast load. "The Load" is fully comparable to "yesterday's deer rifle", the .32-40, and provides good expansion of cheap, soft alloys (10-13 BHN) at woods ranges. Jacketed bullet velocities
with "The Load" are about 120-150 f.p.s. less than a lubricated lead bullet of the same weight. "
and " Wheelweights also work well, as do soft "Scheutzen" alloys such as 1:25 tin/lead. in bores of 8 mm or larger. "The Load" drives soft-cast .30-cal. to 8 mm bullets fast enough to get expansion, but
without fragmenting. These out-penetrate factory .30-30
softpoints, and kill medium game up to 150 lbs. well at short ranges up to 100 yards, when placed accurately. In medium and large bores like the .375 H&H or .45-70, "The Load" gives typical black powder ballistics for the bore. A 255-265 gr. cast bullet in the .375 H&H approximates the .38-55 at 1330 f.p.s. Soft 300-
405-gr. cast bullets are pushed at 1300-1350 f.p.s. from a 22" barrel .45-70, sporter are very effective on deer at woods ranges. Cast bullets over .35 cal. do not have to expand appreciably to work well on game if blunt and heavy for their caliber. "

WAG at cost of 45-70 cast reloads
components per Midwayusa mar 18 09
IMR4064..1 lb...21.49...129 54 gr...17 c
Red Dot..1 lb .15.79....538 13 gr....3 c
CCI 200 LR primers 1k....27.99.....2.8 c

Buffalo Arms cast bullets
.458 405 FN.....26.99 for 50....54 c
wheelweights
25 cents per lb....17 400 gr/ lb .. 2 c

Buffalo reload
54c bullet
17c powder
3c primer
-----------------------------------
74 cents

...wheelweight reloads........
2c bullet ..,.400 gr.....
3c powder..13 gr red dot...
3c primer....CCI 200.....
--------------------------------
8 cents

Learn fields of fire in your AO
24 inches from nose to navel on average man
Truck odometer graduated in 1/10 mi
1/10 = 176 yards
2/10 = 352 yards
per nr 10 Speer loading manual
Marlin 1895 45-70 22" barrel
Speer 400 gr jacketed FN BC .214
MV......100.......200.......300.....400.....500
1700... +8.........poa......-34......-100.....-208
MV........50...100...150....200....250
1300....+5...+6......poa....-14....-38
1000....+9...+10....poa....-21....-54
Ruger Nr 1 22" barrel 45-70
MV......100...150.......200....250
2100....+3.....poa......-6......-16
Rem 700 22" barrel 30-06
Speer 165 gr spitzer BT BC .477
MV......100......200.....300.....400...500
2700....+5.......+6.......poa....-13....-35
SMLE 25" barrel 303 Brit
150 gr spitzer bc 411
mv........100.....200.....300....400....500
2500......+6.......+7........poa...-17....-45
180 gr RN bc .304
mv........50.....100....150....200....250
1500...+3.....+5.......poa....-10......-27
1000....+8.....+9.....poa...-20.......-50

priming tool mod

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXWi0ZtBoYs

(Re video - I do not place my hand over the mouth of the case in which I am seating a primer.)

If you turn the RCBS Hand Priming Tool upside down the primer seating rod falls out.

Disassemble the priming tool.

About an eighth of an inch from the rounded end, file/saw a thin notch about 1/3 through the primer seating rod.

Grasp the end of the tool operating spring with ViseGrip WR5 and bend the end of the spring half closed.

Press the primer seating rod through the spring. The half-closed spring will grasp the notch near the rounded end of the primer seating rod.

Reassemble the tool.

Turn the tool upside down if you wish. The primer seating rod won't fall out.

Nixtamal

Nixtamal is the treated corn that is used to make masa and hominy. First the corn is cooked and soaked in lime, rinsed and then the hulls may or may not be removed. This task may seem daunting and the ingredients may seem unusual, but they are easily found and you will have fresher tasting Posole, Tamales and Tortillas. Once you assemble the ingredients, the rest is easy.
You can use nixtamal in * Tamale Dough * Corn Tortillas * Hominy for Posole
Time Required: 2 hours to 24 hours, depending on use
Here's How:
1. Prepare Measure out 3lbs or 2 quarts of dried corn, 4 quarts of water and 5 tablespoons slaked lime.
2. Mix Mix water and lime in a large nonreactive pot. Turn up heat to "high" and stir constantly until lime is thoroughly dissolved.
3. Cook Add corn to pot and remove any kernels that float to the top. Bring water to a rolling boil, then turn down heat to let it simmer.
* Tortillas- Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Let soak overnight.
* Tamale Dough- Boil for 15 mintues, then let it soak for 1 1/2 hours.
* Hominy- Boil for 15 minutes and let it soak for 15 mintues.
4. Soak After simmering for the appropriate amount of time, cover the pot and turn off the heat. Allow the corn to soak in the heated water. See #8 for soaking times.
5. Rinse and Remove Drain corn in a large colander and rinse under water using your fingers to rub the corn, removing all traces of lime. If you are making hominy, it will be necessary to remove the hulls at this time. The hulls are the little brown tips, and you can just rub them or pick them off.
6. Additional Rinse Put the hulled corn into a large bowl and cover with lukewarm water. Allow to soak for 5-10 minutes while moving the corn around with your fingers. Repeat. This will ensure the lime is washed away.
7. Drain Drain the finished corn through a colander and you now have nixtamal.
8. Cooking and Soaking Times-
* Tortillas- Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Let soak overnight.
* Tamale Dough- Boil for 15 mintues, then let it soak for 1 1/2 hours.
* Hominy- Boil for 15 minutes and let it soak for 15 mintues.
9. Process or Grind To make dough for tamales or tortillas, you will need to grind the nixtamal. The food processor can be used for tamale dough, but it won't grind it fine enough for tortillas. You can use a grinder, or a metate y mano to grind it very fine for tortillas.
Tips:
1. Make sure to remove all of the lime or your masa will be sour and taste badly.
2. For hominy, remember to remove the hulls.
3. Follow the cooking and soaking times because they differ depending on what you are going to be using it for.
4. Be very careful with the lime as it is caustic and can cause bodily harm if ingested in large quantities. It is in the same family as lye.
5. If you have trouble finding lime, try the pickling supplies section of your local grocer. It may be called pickling lime.
What You Need:
* Dried Corn - Field, Dent or Hominy
* Lime- "Cal", Slaked Lime, Calcium Hydroxide (Not Quick Lime or Calcium Oxide)
* Water * Food Processor or Grinder
* Non-Reactive Pot (Stainless Steel or Enamel)

Worksman industrial tricycle

I am considering the PAV3-3C tricycle
http://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_s...html/pav3.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5tgLLmZj8w

or the M2626-3B tricycle http://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_s...html#M2626-3CB

both are heavy duty with thick steel wheels, 11 gage spokes (0.120")
and rated about 500 GVW.

If you have used either of these machines please give me your opinion.

Earthship solar home

Earthship is an earthsheltered, solar home whose walls are old tires packed with dirt. One side of the earthship is a greenhouse.

Here are two of numerous Earthship videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9jdIm7grCY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rlrhxqat_6A&NR=1

safely close a sharp folder

Teach children of all ages to safely close a knife.

Grasp back of blade with one hand. With the

other, release lock. Slowly move handle to

cover cutting edge.

Airfree bicycle tires

Airfree tires of polyurethane microfoam
cannot go flat or blow out. I have them on
five bikes since 2001.


http://felixwong.com/2006/12/air-free-tires/

---

Felix Wong commented,
"Conclusion: I am impressed by these tires. They have convinced me that all generic claims made about modern airless tires — heavy, poor rolling resistance, hard to mount, crackpot money-making schemes, etc. — are bunk.

That they ride harsher than pneumatic tires may be true, but only marginally so. I personally don’t think they ride all that uncomfortably (and note that when I did my commuting rides, I was wearing jeans instead of padded cycling shorts!), and I especially like how I no longer have to worry about flat tires, carrying tire changing tools, or pumping up the tires before going into town.

They are perfect for the Ultimate Commuter Bike, and I believe they may even viable for training rides for competitive cyclists who don’t want to deal with flats. The main people they would not be suitable for are racers and people who are really picky about ride quality (most of these people ride sew-ups anyhow ).

If you try them out, please let me know what you think.

• 
  

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The Black Arrow

a review of The Black Arrow by Vin Suprynowicz, he of the brass balls.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/delsignore93.html

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0976251604/qid=1111697617/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/104-7473025-4014366?v=glance&s=books

If you have never read Suprynowicz, Who was Carl Dregas? is a fine place to start. http://www.geocities.com/northstarzone/drega1.html

Vin Suprynowicz lets it all hang out. If asked I would say that he is elegantly literate.

Best yarn I read lately. reminds me of EFAD. The Order of the Arrow is a small group of illegally armed patriots devoted to killing the enemies of the Constitution. They do business in a sincere manner.

excerpt The Black Arrow p 41
Jerry Westheimer was just a tax man, a medium level cog in a very big machine. He knew that people did not like him but did not expect to be killed for what he did, which was to steal the property of the productive class, a little at a time gradually driving his own country deeper and deeper into the sinkhole of socialist corruption and induced redistributionist poverty.

The Black Arrow was great. Reminded me of Unintended Consequences, EFAD and Batman.
Many ladies will identify with the women warriors of The Order of the Arrow skilled in bow, sword, pistol and rifle.

I mailed it back to the owner. I'll pick up a used copy for reference. I'll probably read it a few more times. People who do not return borrowed books should be impaled on fence posts, or boiled in oil.

the Zeppelin bend knot

http://www.survivaltopics.com/survival/how-to-make-a-zeppelin-bend-knot/

easy to tie two ropes together; and easy to untie
even after knot is subjected to heavy loads.

comparison four brands 22LR subsonic

http://www.jesseshunting.com/articles/guns/category16/66.html

electric motor bicycle

I was wondering if the unreconstructed diehard resister/evader/survivalist might use such a vehicle as this with solar recharge capability. One could pedal normally 98% of time and use electric assist as necessary. Worksman (one,three or seven speed coaster brake) and Husky offer heavy duty industrial bikes GVW 400 lbs. Hummer is 300 lb GVW bicycle trailers carry up to 100 lbs. don't need no steeeenking gasoline. bicycles have electric motor with rechargeable batteries. the Hummer with Cyclone motor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=selRFZUzh6Q the Ultimate Hybrid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKKvP9wWrlY&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV4FxzprGfg&NR=1 motor kit http://www.werelectrified.com/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=1