Holbrook device for Garand

The Holbrook Garand rifle thumb saver is $45.00
postpaid. Please send postal money order
John Holbrook
2015 24th St #57
Bellingham WA 98225
john.holbrook@comcast.net

see Boston's Gun Bible page 11/30
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The Device is a replacement for the GI op rod catch and it stops automatic bolt release when loading a clip. It also prevents auto clip ejection when the last round is fired.

http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/expl-vue.htm
Pls see exploded view Garand
The Holbrook device replaces item 31 oprod catch.
He cut the hook off, and installed a spring on one side.

With it installed, the Garand operates much like the M-14/M1A. When a full clip is inserted into the receiver it will latch, however you must pull and release the bolt handle to charge the top round. It will operate in the normal manner until the last round is fired and the
bolt will lock open but the clip will not eject. To eject the clip you must push the eject button on the receiver...

With an empty clip latched in the receiver, single rounds can be loaded into the clip, 1 through 8. when you have as many as you wish, just pull and release and away you go.......

The rifle is not modified and can be converted back to GI by replacing the Device with the original catch.

I installed it in my Garand. It works exactly as described. I am delighted.

So long as the army is supplying you with unlimited ammo it does not matter if the enbloc clips fly away never to be found. The unreconstructed diehard resister/survivor skulking in the mesquite thickets will appreciate the Holbrook device. It allows him to remove the empty clip and keep it for reloading. That's good because he may not be able to find more .

I was a rifleman in First Platoon Co B 27th Wolfhounds Sep 50 to Sep 51 in Korean War One. The idea that the enemy waits to hear the PING of the ejected enbloc clip to charge your position is utter horseshit.

The Load, cost of components, trajectory

http://www.icehouse.net/fgrig/gun/REDDOT.TXT

excerpts
"The velocities obtained with 13 grs. of Red Dot appear mild, but "The Load" is no pipsqueak! In a case like the .308 or .30-'06, you get (from a 24" sporter barrel) about 1450 f.p.s. with a 200 gr. cast bullet, 1500 with a 170-gr., or 1600 with a 150-gr. cast load. "The Load" is fully comparable to "yesterday's deer rifle", the .32-40, and provides good expansion of cheap, soft alloys (10-13 BHN) at woods ranges. Jacketed bullet velocities
with "The Load" are about 120-150 f.p.s. less than a lubricated lead bullet of the same weight. "
and " Wheelweights also work well, as do soft "Scheutzen" alloys such as 1:25 tin/lead. in bores of 8 mm or larger. "The Load" drives soft-cast .30-cal. to 8 mm bullets fast enough to get expansion, but
without fragmenting. These out-penetrate factory .30-30
softpoints, and kill medium game up to 150 lbs. well at short ranges up to 100 yards, when placed accurately. In medium and large bores like the .375 H&H or .45-70, "The Load" gives typical black powder ballistics for the bore. A 255-265 gr. cast bullet in the .375 H&H approximates the .38-55 at 1330 f.p.s. Soft 300-
405-gr. cast bullets are pushed at 1300-1350 f.p.s. from a 22" barrel .45-70, sporter are very effective on deer at woods ranges. Cast bullets over .35 cal. do not have to expand appreciably to work well on game if blunt and heavy for their caliber. "

WAG at cost of 45-70 cast reloads
components per Midwayusa mar 18 09
IMR4064..1 lb...21.49...129 54 gr...17 c
Red Dot..1 lb .15.79....538 13 gr....3 c
CCI 200 LR primers 1k....27.99.....2.8 c

Buffalo Arms cast bullets
.458 405 FN.....26.99 for 50....54 c
wheelweights
25 cents per lb....17 400 gr/ lb .. 2 c

Buffalo reload
54c bullet
17c powder
3c primer
-----------------------------------
74 cents

...wheelweight reloads........
2c bullet ..,.400 gr.....
3c powder..13 gr red dot...
3c primer....CCI 200.....
--------------------------------
8 cents

Learn fields of fire in your AO
24 inches from nose to navel on average man
Truck odometer graduated in 1/10 mi
1/10 = 176 yards
2/10 = 352 yards
per nr 10 Speer loading manual
Marlin 1895 45-70 22" barrel
Speer 400 gr jacketed FN BC .214
MV......100.......200.......300.....400.....500
1700... +8.........poa......-34......-100.....-208
MV........50...100...150....200....250
1300....+5...+6......poa....-14....-38
1000....+9...+10....poa....-21....-54
Ruger Nr 1 22" barrel 45-70
MV......100...150.......200....250
2100....+3.....poa......-6......-16
Rem 700 22" barrel 30-06
Speer 165 gr spitzer BT BC .477
MV......100......200.....300.....400...500
2700....+5.......+6.......poa....-13....-35
SMLE 25" barrel 303 Brit
150 gr spitzer bc 411
mv........100.....200.....300....400....500
2500......+6.......+7........poa...-17....-45
180 gr RN bc .304
mv........50.....100....150....200....250
1500...+3.....+5.......poa....-10......-27
1000....+8.....+9.....poa...-20.......-50

priming tool mod

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXWi0ZtBoYs

(Re video - I do not place my hand over the mouth of the case in which I am seating a primer.)

If you turn the RCBS Hand Priming Tool upside down the primer seating rod falls out.

Disassemble the priming tool.

About an eighth of an inch from the rounded end, file/saw a thin notch about 1/3 through the primer seating rod.

Grasp the end of the tool operating spring with ViseGrip WR5 and bend the end of the spring half closed.

Press the primer seating rod through the spring. The half-closed spring will grasp the notch near the rounded end of the primer seating rod.

Reassemble the tool.

Turn the tool upside down if you wish. The primer seating rod won't fall out.

Nixtamal

Nixtamal is the treated corn that is used to make masa and hominy. First the corn is cooked and soaked in lime, rinsed and then the hulls may or may not be removed. This task may seem daunting and the ingredients may seem unusual, but they are easily found and you will have fresher tasting Posole, Tamales and Tortillas. Once you assemble the ingredients, the rest is easy.
You can use nixtamal in * Tamale Dough * Corn Tortillas * Hominy for Posole
Time Required: 2 hours to 24 hours, depending on use
Here's How:
1. Prepare Measure out 3lbs or 2 quarts of dried corn, 4 quarts of water and 5 tablespoons slaked lime.
2. Mix Mix water and lime in a large nonreactive pot. Turn up heat to "high" and stir constantly until lime is thoroughly dissolved.
3. Cook Add corn to pot and remove any kernels that float to the top. Bring water to a rolling boil, then turn down heat to let it simmer.
* Tortillas- Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Let soak overnight.
* Tamale Dough- Boil for 15 mintues, then let it soak for 1 1/2 hours.
* Hominy- Boil for 15 minutes and let it soak for 15 mintues.
4. Soak After simmering for the appropriate amount of time, cover the pot and turn off the heat. Allow the corn to soak in the heated water. See #8 for soaking times.
5. Rinse and Remove Drain corn in a large colander and rinse under water using your fingers to rub the corn, removing all traces of lime. If you are making hominy, it will be necessary to remove the hulls at this time. The hulls are the little brown tips, and you can just rub them or pick them off.
6. Additional Rinse Put the hulled corn into a large bowl and cover with lukewarm water. Allow to soak for 5-10 minutes while moving the corn around with your fingers. Repeat. This will ensure the lime is washed away.
7. Drain Drain the finished corn through a colander and you now have nixtamal.
8. Cooking and Soaking Times-
* Tortillas- Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Let soak overnight.
* Tamale Dough- Boil for 15 mintues, then let it soak for 1 1/2 hours.
* Hominy- Boil for 15 minutes and let it soak for 15 mintues.
9. Process or Grind To make dough for tamales or tortillas, you will need to grind the nixtamal. The food processor can be used for tamale dough, but it won't grind it fine enough for tortillas. You can use a grinder, or a metate y mano to grind it very fine for tortillas.
Tips:
1. Make sure to remove all of the lime or your masa will be sour and taste badly.
2. For hominy, remember to remove the hulls.
3. Follow the cooking and soaking times because they differ depending on what you are going to be using it for.
4. Be very careful with the lime as it is caustic and can cause bodily harm if ingested in large quantities. It is in the same family as lye.
5. If you have trouble finding lime, try the pickling supplies section of your local grocer. It may be called pickling lime.
What You Need:
* Dried Corn - Field, Dent or Hominy
* Lime- "Cal", Slaked Lime, Calcium Hydroxide (Not Quick Lime or Calcium Oxide)
* Water * Food Processor or Grinder
* Non-Reactive Pot (Stainless Steel or Enamel)

Worksman industrial tricycle

I am considering the PAV3-3C tricycle
http://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_s...html/pav3.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5tgLLmZj8w

or the M2626-3B tricycle http://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_s...html#M2626-3CB

both are heavy duty with thick steel wheels, 11 gage spokes (0.120")
and rated about 500 GVW.

If you have used either of these machines please give me your opinion.

Earthship solar home

Earthship is an earthsheltered, solar home whose walls are old tires packed with dirt. One side of the earthship is a greenhouse.

Here are two of numerous Earthship videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9jdIm7grCY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rlrhxqat_6A&NR=1

safely close a sharp folder

Teach children of all ages to safely close a knife.

Grasp back of blade with one hand. With the

other, release lock. Slowly move handle to

cover cutting edge.

Airfree bicycle tires

Airfree tires of polyurethane microfoam
cannot go flat or blow out. I have them on
five bikes since 2001.


http://felixwong.com/2006/12/air-free-tires/

---

Felix Wong commented,
"Conclusion: I am impressed by these tires. They have convinced me that all generic claims made about modern airless tires — heavy, poor rolling resistance, hard to mount, crackpot money-making schemes, etc. — are bunk.

That they ride harsher than pneumatic tires may be true, but only marginally so. I personally don’t think they ride all that uncomfortably (and note that when I did my commuting rides, I was wearing jeans instead of padded cycling shorts!), and I especially like how I no longer have to worry about flat tires, carrying tire changing tools, or pumping up the tires before going into town.

They are perfect for the Ultimate Commuter Bike, and I believe they may even viable for training rides for competitive cyclists who don’t want to deal with flats. The main people they would not be suitable for are racers and people who are really picky about ride quality (most of these people ride sew-ups anyhow ).

If you try them out, please let me know what you think.

• 
  

---

The Black Arrow

a review of The Black Arrow by Vin Suprynowicz, he of the brass balls.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/delsignore93.html

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0976251604/qid=1111697617/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/104-7473025-4014366?v=glance&s=books

If you have never read Suprynowicz, Who was Carl Dregas? is a fine place to start. http://www.geocities.com/northstarzone/drega1.html

Vin Suprynowicz lets it all hang out. If asked I would say that he is elegantly literate.

Best yarn I read lately. reminds me of EFAD. The Order of the Arrow is a small group of illegally armed patriots devoted to killing the enemies of the Constitution. They do business in a sincere manner.

excerpt The Black Arrow p 41
Jerry Westheimer was just a tax man, a medium level cog in a very big machine. He knew that people did not like him but did not expect to be killed for what he did, which was to steal the property of the productive class, a little at a time gradually driving his own country deeper and deeper into the sinkhole of socialist corruption and induced redistributionist poverty.

The Black Arrow was great. Reminded me of Unintended Consequences, EFAD and Batman.
Many ladies will identify with the women warriors of The Order of the Arrow skilled in bow, sword, pistol and rifle.

I mailed it back to the owner. I'll pick up a used copy for reference. I'll probably read it a few more times. People who do not return borrowed books should be impaled on fence posts, or boiled in oil.

the Zeppelin bend knot

http://www.survivaltopics.com/survival/how-to-make-a-zeppelin-bend-knot/

easy to tie two ropes together; and easy to untie
even after knot is subjected to heavy loads.

comparison four brands 22LR subsonic

http://www.jesseshunting.com/articles/guns/category16/66.html

electric motor bicycle

I was wondering if the unreconstructed diehard resister/evader/survivalist might use such a vehicle as this with solar recharge capability. One could pedal normally 98% of time and use electric assist as necessary. Worksman (one,three or seven speed coaster brake) and Husky offer heavy duty industrial bikes GVW 400 lbs. Hummer is 300 lb GVW bicycle trailers carry up to 100 lbs. don't need no steeeenking gasoline. bicycles have electric motor with rechargeable batteries. the Hummer with Cyclone motor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=selRFZUzh6Q the Ultimate Hybrid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKKvP9wWrlY&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV4FxzprGfg&NR=1 motor kit http://www.werelectrified.com/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=1

My 4x4

Older Chevy 4X4s: The Ideal EMP-Proof Survival Vehicles, by Vlad

The ideal survival vehicle is a 4x4, 3/4 ton made by GMC or Chevrolet. They are easy to work on, old enough to be cheap, new enough to get parts for and, tough enough to last.
My 1976 GMC 4x4 3/4 ton pickup has 300,000+ plus miles. Maintenance = reliability. It has V8 350, 4 speed standard shift, 4.10 axles, dual-range transfer case, manual hubs. In Low range first gear I have crept up and down icy mountain roads with perfect confidence --- and V-bar chains on all four wheels.
Between the steel line from the gas tank, and the mechanical fuel pump, I installed a piece of new neoprene gas hose with two in-line fuel filters in tandem. This serves to capture grit that would abrade, and shorten the service life of, the fuel pump diaphragm; and otherwise clog the moving parts inside the fuel pump. Between the output side of the mechanical fuel pump and the intake of the carburetor I installed a long piece of neoprene gas line, with one inline fuel filter, secured where it will not touch the exhaust manifold.
At the front of the block, near the mechanical fuel pump, there is a hole threaded 3/8x16. Screw a 3/8x16 bolt in that hole to secure the fuel pump push rod. Remove the old fuel pump. Now is the best time to install neoprene lines and in-line fuel filters as described above. Install new fuel pump. Remove 3.8x16 bolt before you start the engine.
I swapped the high energy ignition (HEI) with a [microprocessor] electronic module) for a [traditional and EMP-proof ] points-type distributor. The HEI distributor is $200 and points-type distributor is $50. I replaced Quadra-Jet 4 barrel carburetor with an Edelbrock 1405 4 bbl carb, and bought a calibration kit. I can change jets and rods for anything from max power in axle-deep mud to economy cruise at high altitude. Just now I have it calibrated for 6,000 foot elevation. In East Texas 400 foot elevation at 65 mph I average 12.5 mpg.
My carb flooded. The engine would not start. I disassembled the carb on my tailgate and found a defective float. I replaced both floats (from my tool box), reassembled the carb and drove home.
In my truck toolbox I carry at all times a starter, alternator, fuel pump, complete distributor; extra points, condenser and rotor; and hand tools ...as well as food, a rifle or two, two axes, and a daypack with a few goodies. If you ain't got it with you it could be a long walk to get it.
I use the alternator but have a generator; and installed a wire-wound voltage regulator. The generator stays in my toolbox. It takes only minutes to bolt the generator in place.
Chevrolet part number 3814970, right exhaust manifold, has a place to mount the generator. It fits all Chevy/GMC small block V8 '73 thru '86. You can order a new one from your dealer.
A generator-equipped vehicle with standard transmission will roll-start without a starter or a battery. If the battery is missing, secure the positive battery cable clamp where it cannot possibly ground. Tape it to a heater hose. Roll start and go!
An alternator must be electrically energized to produce electric current. If your truck has an alternator you must have a battery.
Avoid automatic transmissions. Since around 1960 [US built] automatic transmission vehicles will not push start.
We can thank Big Brother for the many changes in automotive design. Electromagnetic pulse (EMP) from a nuclear detonation 400 miles above earth will destroy all unshielded electronic parts in line-of-sight. ...... the electronic components in Electronic-Fuel Injection, alternators, telephones, radios, televisions, computers, watches, GPS........etc
In 1945 we nuked Hiroshima and Nagasaki. At that time all vehicles had carburetors, generators with wire-wound voltage regulators, and points-type ignition. Vehicle exposed to EMP were still operable. In the early 1950s US conducted nuclear tests in Nevada, and studied effects of nuclear weapons ([including] EMP). Shortly thereafter the generator was replaced with an alternator that has unshielded electronic "chips" ..
If your racy 2007 model Technodazzle stops, call the AAA. Have it towed to the dealer. A highly educated Automotive Diagnostic Technician will attach it to a $100,000 computer to learn which parts to change. Repairs may cost as little as four months pay.
1973 through 1986 Chevy/GMC 4x4 pickup, Blazer and Suburban (seats nine if you wish) have 95% parts interchange. The same carb, fuel pump, alternator, starter fits them all. Every junkyard from Fairbanks to Florida has lots of old Chevy 4x4s.

Procedure for Changing HEI to Traditional Points Ignition on a 1976 GMC/Chevy V8 350:
A picture is worth a 1000 words. At the public library find a Chilton manual for 1974 Chevy/GMC V8 350 and study the engine ignition wiring; and photocopy those pages to use as a guide.
If possible, find someone who drives a 74 or older GMC V8 350 and eyeball his wiring.
buy these parts
- rebuilt points distributor for 1974 GMC V8 350, with cap and rotor
- also buy replacement points, rotor and condenser (for later tune up. each time you use tune up parts, immediately buy replacements for your toolbox for next time.)
- buy the Allen wrench with long handle with which to adjust the points
- set of points-type spark plug wires
- 8 each AC-Delco # 44 spark plugs (Gap them to 0.035")
- two ballast resistors ( one goes in toolbox for later)
- one coil and coil bracket (you may want to buy an extra coil at this time)
STEP ONE is to read all instructions three times before you do anything else. If possible have an experienced friend oversee your installation.
Begin:
-remove negative battery cable clamp from the alternator bracket.
-tape the negative battery cable to a heater hose (so it cannot ground).
-mount ballast resistor on the firewall.
-mount the coil and bracket on the fire wall below the ballast resistor.
-the (only ) RED wire that presently runs from ignition switch through firewall to your HEI distributor will be connected to the driver side of the ballast resistor. (cut the red wire at a point 3" from HEI distributor. cut a 15" inch piece of number 12 insulated wire to extend the RED wire to connect to driver side of ballast resistor.
use a butt connector to connect 15" wire to red wire. use a spade connector to connect it to ballast resistor.)
-with an 8" piece of number 12 insulated wire, spade connector on each end, connect passenger side of the ballast resistor to the "plus" ( + ) side of the coil.
-the only black wire hanging out the bottom of the points distributor connects to the
minus ( - ) side of the coil. (it goes from points to minus side of the coil)
For future reference, with a white paint stick, mark a large - and + on the coil. when you are cold, tired and the wind is blowing up your jacket (and your wife is asking if you got it fixed yet) it will help to see those marks and not have to rely on memory.
points distributor cap terminals --
#2 is the first terminal CW of the "door" in the distributor cap where you adjust the points.
firing order is 1 - 8 - 4 -3 - 6- 5- 7 - 2
with masking tape label points distributor cap terminals, HEI distributor terminals, and each HEI spark plug wire near the spark plug.
driver side front to back 1, 3, 5, 7 ..... and passenger side front to back 2, 4, 6, 8;
pull the plug wires off each spark plug but leave them connected to distributor cap.
remove HEI distributor cap with spark plug wires still attached. lay that aside for now.
Note the position of HEI distributor rotor. If it points to 6 o'clock, write on a 3x5 card "rotor to 6 o'clock" and tape that card on inner fender.
-loosen hold-down bolt ( 9/16" wrench) and remove HEI distributor
-install points distributor with rotor pointing to 6 o'clock (if that is what you wrote on the 3x5 card taped to the inner fender). the points distributor rotor must point exactly as did the HEI distributor rotor.
-hand tighten the hold-down bolt. later you will need to turn the distributor by hand when setting the timing.
you bought new AC 44 plugs and gapped them 0.035".
-now install the new spark plugs.
-install the points distributor cap.
-install the new plug wires one at a time. using the HEI distributor cap and wires as a guide.
-connect dwell tachometer black clip to ground, red clip to "minus" side of coil
-open the window in the distributor cap, and stick the allen wrench (with long handle) in the points adjust knob.
-connect battery ground cable to alternator bracket.
-remove vacuum hose from distributor, and plug that end of the hose
-with starter turning engine, turn allen wrench to adjust points so dwell reads 30.(book specs 29 to 31)
to set timing:
- with engine idling.
- the vacuum advance hose is still plugged.
- turn distributor CCW to attain maximum idle RPM, then CW to 200 RPM less than maximum
unplug vacuum advance hose. connect unplugged hose to vacuum advance on distributor.
with 9/16" wrench tighten distributor hold-down bolt.
if engine pings or rattles on acceleration:
-- disconnect and plug vacuum advance hose
-- connect dwell tachometer, black to ground , red to minus side of coil
-- loosen hold-down bolt and turn distributor CCW to max idle RPM, then CW to 300 RPM less than max idle RPM.
--tighten hold-down bolt to secure distributor
-- unplug and reconnect vacuum advance hose to distributor

Now let me tell you how we changed points in the shop:
-Since the engine will start if the points gap (which governs dwell angle, the number degrees of distributor rotation that the points remain closed) is close to .024", we'd install the point set and eyeball the gap to that.
-You can use a matchbook cover if yer eye is out of calibration.
-Then we'd crank it up and slowly turn the adjustment to the point where the engine began to stumble, then back the other way til it began to ping. The correct dwell would be -- within limits -- at the midpoint between the two.
-Timing can be done the same way mentioned previously but listening for the "ping and stumble" and setting midpoint between.
-When doing timing or dwell by this method, make the adjustment as smoothly as possible to make changes in engine sound more easily detectable. Keeping the distributor clamp screw just finger snug will make this easier when doing the timing.
-I toss this on the pile because there will be times when ya just do no have a dwell [meter/]tachometer in your pocket and have to change out ignition components that require adjustment. Get in tune with the pitch and sound of a properly tuned engine running at idle.
When I was doing this stuff regularly in my shop (I once was an automotive masochistic), I could by ear tell engine speed within 50 RPM -- no BS on this. If you are serious about this stuff, get intimate with your vehicle.

Packing '73-'86 GMC/Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 front wheel bearings:
As always read instructions three times before you do anything else. You will need a metal pie plate and large magnet
- place magnet in center of pie plate.
- place small parts on magnet. (they will be there when you look for them)
special 3/8" drive socket for castellated nut inside hub
3/8" allen wrench
3/8" drive breaker bar
3/8 x 16 x 3" bolt
-wheel bearing grease
-spindle grease seal
-hub grease seals
-- chock rear wheel front and back
-- loosen front wheel lug nuts
-- raise front of truck on jack
-- place stands under axle housing
-- remove front wheel
-- with 3/8 allen wrench remove bolts that secure brake caliper
( place bolts on magnet in pie plate)
-- remove brake caliper and secure it without stretching or kinking brake hose
-- remove hub
-- with snap ring pliers remove snap ring
-- with special socket remove outer castellated nut
-- remove the washer (++ note that it has a pin that fits into a hole in the inner castellated nut)
-- remove inner castellated nut
-- remove rotor
-- remove the six nuts that secure the spindle
-- remove the spindle. it may be necessary to tap spindle with a brass hammer to remove it . do not use a steel hammer as that will mar the spindle-remove oil seal on inner side of rotor
-remove inner wheel bearing. wash it in solvent. dry it. apply new grease. put a golf ball size lump of grease in the palm of your left hand. place new bearing on the lump of grease. place right hand over left. squeeze hands together to force grease into the new bearing.
-place greased new bearing in the inner side of rotor. place new oil seal. with a brass hammer, or wooden handle very gently tap around the seal seating it.
-remove oil seal from spindle. remove old spindle bearing. grease and install new spindle bearing, install new spindle seal. A note on reassembly: Screw the 3/8x16x3" bolt into the threaded hole in the end of the axle. pull outward on the axle so you can get the snap ring on.
PS: Buy new wheel bearings and spindle bearings and seals to keep in reserve. Open each package. Grease the new bearings. Wrap them and put them back in the package. This will serve to keep them from rusting; and allow you to install greased bearings in the field. Keep the new bearings and seals in the toolbox on your truck.

hydration in hot weather

I add 1/2 teaspoon Morton LiteSalt to my 2 liter backpack canteen
page 118 Let's Eat Right by Adelle Davis
Under normal circumstances, a healthy person runs little risk of deficiencies of sodium and chlorine. In extremely hot weather, however, so much salt can be lost through perspiration that death may occur.
Death from salt deficiency occured during the construction of Boulder Dam and similiar projects. During the blistering summer of 1933 I corresponded with an engineer who was working on Parker Dam. Each letter contained some such note as, "We had a wonderful cook but he died yesterday of sunstroke." The symptoms of sunstroke are now recognized as caused largely by loss of salt through perspiration.
A lack of salt causes symptoms varying in severity from mild lassitude, weariness, or hot-weather fatigue, common during heat waves, to heat cramp, heat exhaustion, and heatstroke, familiar to those who work in iron foundries, furnace or boiler rooms, and industrial plants such as steel or paper mills. Even persons who play tennis or take similar exercise during hot weather may suffer from heat stroke.
Persons working in extremely hot weather are often advised to take a salt tablet with each drink of water.
page 187 there are three nutrients - potassium, sodium and chlorine which we need in quite large amounts. Sodium and chlorine are supplied by tablet salt. Potassium is widely occuring in ........

Morton LiteSalt 11 oz about 99c
1 oz = 6 teaspooons
11 oz = 66 teaspoons= 76,560 mg sodium, and 89,760 mg potassium
1/4 teaspoon serving
290 mg sodium
340 mg potassium
40% iodine
If you put one teaspoon Morton LiteSalt per gallon of water, an 8 oz serving will contain 72 mg Sodium, and 85 mg Potassium.
8 oz of Gatorade
contains 110 mg sodium, 30 mg potassium. (per Gatorade label.)

survivor/resister minimum gear

If reduced to mininum gear I could carry on my mountain bike with airless tires a rifle, 200 loaded rounds, 50 cal kit for 500 reloads
and forty pounds other gear without which life might be short but grim -- poncho, hammock, sleepbag, silnylon tarp, cast net, trot line,
cookpot, ax etc.
Ranges are short in the piney woods of East Texas. Subsonic handloads are quiet. They will be lucky if they do not catch me.

..............................................................................

Original Lee Loader (sizes only the neck)
http://tinyurl.com/6dhhv6
OLL tutorial
http://tinyurl.com/22eop8

Reloading with Lee Loader video http://tinyurl.com/66nd82

RCBS hand priming tool
http://tinyurl.com/2xgufc

in addition to bench mounted tools,
I have 50 cal ammo can kits for 30-06, 30-30 and 45-70.
Each 50 can holds Original Lee Loader, RCBS hand priming tool, and powder, primers and bullets for 500 reloads.

Haitian Zebco

You need not carry a rod and reel in your BOB.
You can easily improvise. I prefer to use braided
50 lb test spyderwire which is as thin as BrandX
ten lb test line.
Wrap the line around a bottle or Coke can. Take
care that you securely tie the end of the
line to the can.

With a little practice you can cast a lure or baited hook
almost as far, and as accurately, as with rod and reel.

To retrieve, let the incoming line run through one hand.
With the other hand move the bottle as if stirring the air
with it and the line will wrap on the bottle.

thong

1. affix six inches of bead chain to one end of a stout nylon cord twice as long as the barrel of your rifle. At the other end tie a loop (bowline). Eight inches in from the loop on the end tie another loop (bowline). When you wish to clean the rifle, place a patch in the inner of the two loops. Hold rifle muzzle down, drop bead chain into chamber. It will pull the thong down through the barrel. If the patch is too large and gets caught, grasp the end loop and pull the patch out backwards. It is not well to have the thong break leaving a patch in the bore of your rifle.. I usually clean my rifles with carburetor cleaner. I hold them muzzle down, squirt carb cleaner into chamber and bore and clean with a thong as described.

quick and dirty shelter

http://tinyurl.com/29xojl

kit

minimum kit in day pack, or in fishing vest with pouch on back
--knit wool watch cap
--leather palm work gloves
--lightweight GI hooded poncho
--survival blanket with hole so you can wear it as a liner under
the poncho (heavyweight blanket, three grommets
each long side, aluminized one side, OD green other side.
It folds up the size of a magazine.)
--flashlight,
--polaroid sunglasses
--bandana
--multi-tool
--extra tea candles inside candle lantern
--map and compass
--whistle
--knife and sharpener
-- three Bic propane cigarette lighters
--magnesium firestarter with 3 inch hacksaw blade and GI
P-38 can opener attached
--canteen(s) and water purification tabs.
--small fishing kit
--food (I carry 2 cans corned beef, or 4 cans smoked kippers)
-- 4 oz morton litesalt
I assume that you have a large bore sidearm or a rifle.

If you RON away from camp select a suitable tree or rock to
lean back against, clear all combustibles from the ground for
ten feet in all directions, insulate your butt from the
ground, put on liner with poncho, and put lighted candle lantern
on a stick across a hole between your feet. Heat will rise inside
the poncho. The Hilton it aint but it'll keep you alive.

NOTE as soon as you realize that you are lost sit down, thinks
things over, check your map, take a drink of water, eat if you are
hungry. Relax. If it is late afternoon expect to RON there.